The clock struck 8 AM on November 4, 2024, marking the start of a long-awaited journey: the Spiti Circuit. The excitement in the air was palpable, energized by the crisp November breeze and the sight of our golden retriever, Shiro, wagging his tail with uncontainable joy.
After driving for an hour and a half, we arrived at our favorite pit stop—Amrik Sukhdev. No road trip of ours begins without indulging in its legendary parathas, and this trip was no exception. The buttery aroma of freshly made parathas and the warmth of steaming cups of chai filled us with enthusiasm for our adventure. Shiro, ever the curious foodie, eagerly sniffed the air, hoping to join in our breakfast celebration.
With our hearts full and spirits soaring, we hit the road, ready to embrace the challenges, thrills, and breathtaking vistas that lay ahead, knowing that every mile would bring us closer to unforgettable experiences.
After a hearty breakfast, we packed a few extra parathas for the road and couldn’t resist buying some Khatti-Methi Imli candies from the store outside Amrik Sukhdev. With our provisions secured, we set off for Shimla, deciding to make it our first overnight stop. The route via Ambala and Chandigarh was smooth, with the anticipation of the mountains growing stronger with each passing mile. On the way, we made a brief stop at The Red Capsicum Dhaba Himachal for a refreshing cup of tea. The wind had picked up, and the chill in the air was a clear reminder that we were leaving the plains behind. Shiro, unfazed by the cold, was thrilled to finally have a break after the long drive. He jumped out of the car, running around excitedly, his tail wagging furiously as he stretched his legs. After we sipped our tea and enjoyed the rustic charm of the dhaba, Shiro continued his playful antics. After using the washroom and soaking in the brisk, cold air, we were back on the road, eagerly making our way toward Shimla as the sun began its slow descent.
As we finally reached Shimla, we were met with a bustling crowd and a heavy traffic jam, which made it difficult to find a suitable hotel. Frustrated by the chaos, we decided to head toward Kufri, hoping for a quieter, more peaceful stay. After a few calls, we managed to book a room at JK Dream View Kufri, and it turned out to be a great choice. We arrived around 8:20 PM, and the room was not only comfortable but also reasonably priced. The hotel offered a calm retreat away from the hustle and bustle of Shimla, with stunning views of the surrounding mountains. Shiro, too, seemed relieved to be in a more tranquil place. We had dinner, but the food wasn’t exactly great—though, considering the circumstances, you can’t expect everything. Still, the room made up for it, and after the long, tiring drive, we were ready to call it a night. The exhaustion from the journey caught up with us, and we fell asleep, recharging for the adventures ahead.
The next morning, we woke up a little later than planned, feeling the comfort of the cozy room. Thankfully, there was a kettle in the room, so we made ourselves a warm cup of coffee. As we sipped on it, the view from our window left us in awe. The majestic mountains stretched endlessly before us, bathed in the soft glow of the morning sun that had just risen a little above the peaks. The golden light illuminated the landscape, creating a picture-perfect moment that felt like a reward for our journey so far. Shiro, ever curious, sat by the window, his ears perked up, seemingly mesmerized by the view as much as we were.
The food at the hotel, however, wasn’t great, so we decided to get creative. We remembered we had packed some Maggi noodles, and using the kettle in the room, we whipped up a quick and satisfying breakfast. It felt like a small, fun adventure in itself. After finishing the Maggi, we planned to stop at a proper restaurant later. A quick search on Google helped us find some good options along the way, giving us something to look forward to as we prepared to continue our journey.
After a few hours of driving, we reached Khadu Cafe, a charming spot nestled in the mountains. The cafe’s theme was inspired by forest camping, creating a unique and inviting atmosphere. Instead of a hard floor, the ground was covered with dry grass, and potted plants added a refreshing touch of greenery. Bamboo outdoor chairs and wooden tables enhanced the rustic vibe, blending seamlessly with the natural surroundings. A small bookshelf filled with books in the corner added to its cozy charm. The best part was that it was pet-friendly, so Shiro could enjoy the break with us. The staff were incredibly welcoming and even offered Shiro some food, which he happily devoured while wagging his tail. We savored their delicious siddu, parathas, steaming hot tea, and refreshing buttermilk. It was the perfect pit stop to recharge, with Shiro soaking up all the attention and love from the friendly staff in this nature-inspired haven.
After enjoying the delicious food at Khadu Cafe, we set off toward Hatu Peak and its famous temple. The road leading up was not for the faint-hearted—it was incredibly narrow, with sharp hairpin bends and a steep incline that seemed to climb endlessly into the clouds. Our Kia Seltos roared through the treacherous path, its tires gripping the edge of the road just feet away from the sheer drop of the cliffside. The sound of loose gravel crunching beneath the wheels added to the tension. My brother, uncle, and aunt were visibly terrified, their faces pale as they clung to the seat handles. Every turn felt like a gamble, as the road seemed barely wide enough for one vehicle, let alone if another car approached from the opposite direction.
At one point, we had to stop and reverse to let another vehicle pass, with the cliff looming ominously close. The sensation of being suspended so high above the valley below was both thrilling and unnerving. Even Shiro, usually full of energy and excitement, sat perfectly still in the back seat, as if he, too, could sense the gravity of the situation. The howling wind outside and the occasional sight of loose rocks tumbling down the slopes added to the adrenaline rush. It felt like we were on the edge of an adventure movie, each twist and turn testing our courage.
After conquering the breathtaking heights of Hatu Peak, we plunged into the next leg of our adventure, heading toward Reckong Peo, where we planned to spend the night. The journey was long and demanding, especially since we had to cross the Kinnaur Valley roads at night due to the delays we encountered earlier. The winding, narrow roads seemed even more treacherous under the dark sky, and every turn felt like a leap of faith. Despite the challenges, the night was alive with the thrill of the unknown. By the time we reached Reckong Peo, it was around 10 PM, and exhaustion had set in. Thankfully, we managed to find a hotel that had a room available and served food, which was a relief after such a demanding drive. However, like most of the hotels we stayed in during this trip, the food was far from impressive. Despite that, the sense of accomplishment from covering such a distance kept our spirits high as we prepared for the next leg of our adventure.
The next morning, we woke up to a stunning sight. The night had been cold, with temperatures dipping to -8°C, but the crisp air was refreshing as the first light of dawn began to break. As I stepped outside, I was greeted by a breathtaking sunrise. The sun slowly emerged from behind the mountains, its light rays gently filtering through the trees. The soft glow of the morning light created a sense of calm that washed over me, quieting my mind and easing the lingering tension of the journey. The stillness of the moment felt almost sacred as if the world had paused just for me. Shiro, too, was calm, lying beside me, his presence grounding me in the peacefulness of the scene. It was a moment of pure serenity, where everything seemed in perfect harmony, and I couldn’t help but feel deeply connected to the beauty of the world around me. In that stillness, I found a deep sense of peace, a reminder of the simple joys that travel and nature bring to the soul.
With the peaceful sunrise still fresh in our minds, we had breakfast and hit the road once again, winding through the mountain paths. The views were nothing short of mesmerizing—every turn revealed awe-inspiring landscapes that seemed to stretch endlessly. We stopped at Telangi, Himachal Pradesh, as my little brother was eager to explore the river running alongside the road—the Sutlej River. We parked our car by the roadside and made our way down to the riverbank. The cool breeze from the river, combined with the sound of the rushing water, created a tranquil atmosphere. My brother, full of excitement, spent time throwing stones into the river, watching them skip across the surface, his laughter echoing in the stillness. Shiro, too, seemed to enjoy the moment, happily splashing around in the cold water, his tail wagging with joy. It was one of those simple yet unforgettable moments where time seemed to slow down, and the connection with nature felt pure and unhurried.
After spending about an hour and a half by the river, we got back into the car and continued our journey. Soon, we reached the famous Khabo Loops, a series of dramatic hairpin bends that offered some of the most breathtaking views of the valley below. The scenery was absolutely stunning—mountains towering above, the river winding through the valley, and the vast sky above. We couldn’t resist stopping for a photo session. The loops provided the perfect backdrop, and we spent some time capturing the beauty of the moment with photos and videos. I even flew my drone to capture the vastness of the landscape from above. The aerial shots were mesmerizing, showcasing the winding roads, the deep valley, and the majesty of the mountains. It was one of those rare moments when you truly feel small in the face of such immense natural beauty.
After our photo session, we finally reached Nako around 4 PM. As soon as we arrived, the cold wind hit us immediately, making the air feel crisp and refreshing. Shiro, who had been waiting inside the car, eagerly jumped out and started running around, enjoying the open space. We then decided to have a break and enjoyed some delicious momos and thukpa, which were just what we needed after a long drive. Shiro, not one to miss out, also had a few momos and seemed to enjoy them just as much as we did. The warmth and flavors of the meal were truly comforting.
After having food, I checked the fuel status and realized we were running low. I had forgotten to refuel at the last stop, and now we had to travel 110 km to the next fuel station. The car’s odometer indicated that we had about 120 km left, but my uncle, ever the cautious one, advised against taking any chances, especially with my aunt and little brother with us. I asked the locals near the restaurant if there was fuel available, and they told me that there was a grocery store nearby where an aged uncle was selling fuel. I went there, and to my relief, they had fuel available, charging a premium of 10 rupees per liter. I filled up 20 liters, thanked the kind uncle, and felt a huge sense of relief. Shiro, after his little exploration and meal, was back in the car, and with a full tank, satisfied bellies, and everyone ready, we were on our way again, continuing our journey to the next adventure.
At around 6:30 PM, we finally reached the checkpost of Spiti Valley. As we approached, the iconic entrance gate came into view, with “Welcome to Spiti Valley” proudly written across it. The sight filled us with a sense of accomplishment and excitement—it felt like we were stepping into a whole new world. Before proceeding, we paid an entrance fee of ₹120 per car, which felt like a small price for the adventure that awaited us. The surroundings were rugged and quiet, with a stark beauty that immediately captured our attention. We paused for a moment to capture some photos from the car, marveling at the grandeur of the place. Shiro, sitting in the back seat, peeked out of the window, watching us with curiosity as if wondering what the fuss was about. The air was cool and crisp, and the silence of the valley was broken only by the occasional rustle of the wind. It was the perfect start to what promised to be an unforgettable journey through Spiti.
After crossing the checkpost, we continued our journey, listening to songs and driving along the zig-zag mountain roads. The twists and turns of the roads were thrilling, with the headlights carving through the darkness and revealing glimpses of the towering cliffs and deep valleys around us. The rhythmic hum of the car and the music kept us company as we made our way through the serene yet challenging terrain.
By the time we reached Tabo, it was quite late, and the famous Tabo Monastery was already closed for the day. Feeling a bit disappointed but determined to stick to our plan, we decided to pack some food from a small eatery outside the monastery. With dinner sorted, we set off again, heading towards Kaza, where we planned to stay the night. The drive ahead promised more winding roads and breathtaking views, even in the dim moonlight. As the cold night deepened, we were eager to reach Kaza and rest, ready for the next leg of our adventure.
As we navigated the quiet, winding roads under the starry night sky, a faint hissing sound broke through the rhythm of the car and the music. My heart skipped a beat—it sounded like gas leaking. The gas cylinder strapped to the roof of the car immediately came to mind. Adrenaline kicked in, and I quickly pulled over, stepping into the cold, silent night to investigate. Without a flashlight, I relied on the dim glow of the moon to guide me as I climbed onto the roof carrier.
There it was—the stove, jostled by the relentless twists and turns of the mountain roads, had ground against the carrier, loosening the connection. The gas was leaking. I tightened the cylinder carefully, my fingers fumbling slightly in the biting cold. As I secured it, I paused for a moment and looked up. Towering rock formations loomed above, their jagged silhouettes glowing eerily in the moonlight. The stark contrast of their rugged edges against the star-speckled sky made the scene feel surreal.
Standing there under the vast expanse of the universe, with the faint smell of gas lingering in the air and the towering cliffs watching silently, I felt a strange mix of tension and awe. The moment, though nerve-wracking, was a vivid reminder of the wild and untamed beauty of the Himalayas—a place where even the challenges came with breathtaking rewards.
We had booked a hotel on Airbnb, thinking it would be a cozy spot to rest after the long drive. But when we arrived, reality hit hard. The road leading to the place was broken, and it seemed impossible to reach by car. The place had a shady, almost abandoned vibe. My uncle, who’s always quick to sense things, got out of the car and walked to the hotel since it was impossible to drive up due to the broken road. After a while, he returned to the car, looked at me, and said, “This Airbnb doesn’t feel right. It seems like a shady place.” Without a word, we both knew this wasn’t the place for us.
So, we decided to leave and look for another hotel nearby. Thankfully, we found a decent one that felt much safer and more welcoming. Even though we had packed dinner, my uncle insisted we should have something fresh and hot. So, we ventured out into the cold night and found a small local restaurant, where we packed dal chawal and mixed vegetables. While waiting for our food, I noticed a map on the wall that displayed various places in Spiti with short descriptions. It mentioned places like Kibber, Pin Valley, Hikkim, Tabo, Lossar, and more. It was fascinating to see these names and learn about the regions we had been exploring and were yet to discover.
We then headed back to the hotel, where we enjoyed the warm meal with the family. There’s something about a hot meal after a long day of travel that just makes everything feel right.
A funny thing happened when we got out to grab food. As I was entering the restaurant, I didn’t realize the door was locked, and my head hit the glass door. People inside started laughing, and even though I was a bit embarrassed, I couldn’t help but laugh too. It was one of those moments where you just have to laugh at yourself, even if it was a little awkward.
On our way back to the hotel, I noticed the ground was frozen—water had turned to ice. I pointed it out to my uncle, saying, “Look, the water is frozen!” It was a small thing, but in that moment, it really hit me—this place was so different from what we were used to. The cold, the isolation, and the raw beauty of the mountains—it all felt like a reminder of how far we had come from the comfort of home.
The next day, we woke up a bit late, feeling the exhaustion from the previous day’s journey. After a leisurely morning, we set out to visit the famous Key Monastery, the first stop of the day. The drive to the monastery was smooth, and as we neared it, the towering structure against the backdrop of the Spiti Valley left us in awe. The monastery, perched high on a hill, seemed to stand as a symbol of peace and tranquility amidst the rugged mountains.
Shiro, our playful male Golden Retriever, was full of energy as usual. While we explored the monastery, he made some new friends—kids who were visiting from Gujarat. They were excited to meet him and, of course, Shiro was more than happy to join in the fun. The kids fed him biscuits, and he happily accepted, wagging his tail in delight. His joyful energy added a lighthearted touch to the peaceful surroundings. We spent some time exploring the monastery, soaking in its serene atmosphere, and taking in the breathtaking views that stretched out in all directions. It was a perfect start to the day, a moment of calm and reflection before the next leg of our adventure, made even more memorable by Shiro’s playful spirit and the kindness of the kids.
After our visit to Key Monastery, we continued our journey towards Hikkim, but not before making a quick stop along the way. My little brother, as always, was eager to throw stones into the river. We pulled over, and he excitedly ran to the riverbank, searching for the perfect rocks to toss into the rushing, cold water. With each stone he threw, he watched intently as they skipped and splashed, his face lighting up with each successful throw.
Shiro, always curious, trotted around the riverbank, sniffing and exploring the surroundings. He was fascinated by the movement of the water and, at times, even tried to catch a stone mid-air, his playful antics bringing a smile to all of us. The cold mountain air, combined with the freezing water, made it a refreshing yet invigorating experience. After spending some time there, we finally got back into the car and continued our journey to Hikkim, ready for the next part of our adventure.
After leaving the river, we continued our journey and made our way to the Lanza Buddha Statue, a majestic and peaceful site. Perched on a hill, the statue stood tall, watching over the valley below. The serene expression on the Buddha’s face seemed to reflect the tranquility of the surrounding landscape, offering a sense of calm and reverence to all who visited.
The view from the statue was awe-inspiring, with sweeping vistas of the Spiti Valley stretching out in every direction. The contrast between the bright blue sky and the rugged mountains created a breathtaking backdrop for the statue. It felt like a moment frozen in time, where the spiritual presence of the Buddha seemed to merge with the natural beauty of the Himalayas.
As we spent time there, taking in the peaceful atmosphere and the stunning surroundings, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of awe and serenity. Shiro, our playful golden retriever, enjoyed the open space, running around and soaking in the fresh mountain air. The visit to the Lanza Buddha Statue was a reminder of the deep spirituality that permeates the region, and it left us with a sense of inner peace as we continued our journey through the mountains.
After visiting the Lanza Buddha Statue,At around 4:50 in the evening, we finally reached Komic Village. Despite the sun still being visible, the cold was unbearable, and the wind made it feel even colder. We quickly got out of the car, but the chill in the air forced us to seek shelter inside again. Komic, known as one of the highest motorable villages in the world, stood proudly at an impressive altitude. A signboard at the entrance proudly displayed this fact, reminding us of the remarkable feat it represented.
Though it was November and there was no snow, the village had a raw beauty all its own. The barren fields, simple houses, and traditional Himalayan structures blended seamlessly with the surrounding rugged mountains and vast valleys. It was a peaceful, almost isolated place, with the locals living off farming and shepherding.
We didn’t stay outside for long due to the cold, but the brief stop allowed us to take in the serene beauty of Komic. The village felt timeless, untouched by the rush of the outside world. After a quick look around, we retreated to the warmth of the car, continuing our journey with a sense of awe for the unique experience we had just witnessed.
On my way back from Komic, I couldn’t resist capturing the beauty of the fading daylight. As I descended from the high village, the landscape transformed before my eyes. The once harsh cold began to soften, but the chill of the mountains still lingered in the air. The river below reflected the last light of the day, its surface glistening like liquid silver, while the sky shifted through shades of lavender and gold. The serene beauty of the scene felt like nature’s gentle reminder to slow down and appreciate the quiet moments, a peaceful end to a journey that had already left an indelible mark on my soul.
On our way back from Kaza, the breathtaking landscapes continued to amaze us. The vast expanse of mountains, their rugged edges standing tall under the crystal-clear blue sky, was a sight to behold. The river meandered gracefully through the valley, its shimmering surface reflecting the brilliance of the sun.
We paused at several spots to soak in the serenity and capture these moments. One of my favorite clicks was of my younger brother, his face glowing with joy as he held the camera. The backdrop of towering mountains and the endless blue sky made it a perfect frame—a memory etched forever.
Another stop gave us a chance to capture the long, winding road flanked by the majestic mountains. The stark contrast of the barren landscape against the azure sky created a surreal canvas. It was hard to believe that such untouched beauty existed, far away from the chaos of city life.
These moments reminded us why journeys like these are so special—they reconnect us with nature and allow us to appreciate its raw, unfiltered magnificence. As we continued on this road towards Manali, nearing the end of our journey, we couldn’t help but feel grateful for the experiences and memories Spiti had gifted us. Every photo we took felt like a piece of Spiti we were taking home with us, a reminder of its unmatched beauty and tranquility.
While we were heading back, we saw something amazing near Kunzum Pass—a patch of frozen ice clinging to the rocks! The ice sparkled in the sunlight, looking like crystals scattered on the ground. The golden-brown grass around it made the icy white stand out even more, creating a scene that felt like a magical winter painting. Shiro, our playful dog, was super curious and even ate some of the ice! We all stood there for a while, enjoying the chilly air and the beauty of the moment.
After driving for a few hours, we reached Rohtang Pass. It was nothing like the pictures we had seen before. The air was cold, but there was no snow at all. The place was completely empty, with no one around. It felt strange to see such a quiet and deserted place, especially one that is usually full of people. Even Shiro seemed curious, sniffing around and exploring the quiet surroundings.
As we continued our journey from Spiti to Manali, the dry, rocky landscapes slowly began to change. The greenery around us kept increasing as we got closer to Manali. Tall trees, green valleys, and small streams made the view so beautiful. Shiro seemed to enjoy the change too, wagging his tail and sticking his head out of the car window to feel the fresh breeze. It was a refreshing change after spending days in the barren mountains of Spiti.
Finally, we reached Manali and decided to stay there for the night. The town felt warm and welcoming after the long, cold journey. The next morning, we started our drive back to Delhi, taking with us memories of stunning views, peaceful moments, and the amazing beauty of the mountains. This trip will always stay in our hearts, and we hope to visit the Himalayas again someday.
Very well curated story of Spiti journey. This definitely increased my curiosity to explore this amazing place, food and culture.