The clock struck 8 AM on November 4, 2024, marking the start of a long-awaited journey: the Spiti Circuit. The excitement in the air was palpable, energized by the crisp November breeze and the sight of our golden retriever, Shiro, wagging his tail with uncontainable joy.
After driving for an hour and a half, we arrived at our favorite pit stop—Amrik Sukhdev. No road trip of ours begins without indulging in its legendary parathas, and this trip was no exception. The buttery aroma of freshly made parathas and the warmth of steaming cups of chai filled us with enthusiasm for our adventure. Shiro, ever the curious foodie, eagerly sniffed the air, hoping to join in our breakfast celebration.
With our hearts full and spirits soaring, we hit the road, ready to embrace the challenges, thrills, and breathtaking vistas that lay ahead, knowing that every mile would bring us closer to unforgettable experiences.
After a hearty breakfast, we packed a few extra parathas for the road and couldn’t resist buying some Khatti-Methi Imli candies from the store outside Amrik Sukhdev. With our provisions secured, we set off for Shimla, deciding to make it our first overnight stop. The route via Ambala and Chandigarh was smooth, with the anticipation of the mountains growing stronger with each passing mile. On the way, we made a brief stop at The Red Capsicum Dhaba Himachal for a refreshing cup of tea. The wind had picked up, and the chill in the air was a clear reminder that we were leaving the plains behind. Shiro, unfazed by the cold, was thrilled to finally have a break after the long drive. He jumped out of the car, running around excitedly, his tail wagging furiously as he stretched his legs. After we sipped our tea and enjoyed the rustic charm of the dhaba, Shiro continued his playful antics. After using the washroom and soaking in the brisk, cold air, we were back on the road, eagerly making our way toward Shimla as the sun began its slow descent.
As we finally reached Shimla, we were met with a bustling crowd and a heavy traffic jam, which made it difficult to find a suitable hotel. Frustrated by the chaos, we decided to head toward Kufri, hoping for a quieter, more peaceful stay. After a few calls, we managed to book a room at JK Dream View Kufri, and it turned out to be a great choice. We arrived around 8:20 PM, and the room was not only comfortable but also reasonably priced. The hotel offered a calm retreat away from the hustle and bustle of Shimla, with stunning views of the surrounding mountains. Shiro, too, seemed relieved to be in a more tranquil place. We had dinner, but the food wasn’t exactly great—though, considering the circumstances, you can’t expect everything. Still, the room made up for it, and after the long, tiring drive, we were ready to call it a night. The exhaustion from the journey caught up with us, and we fell asleep, recharging for the adventures ahead.
The next morning, we woke up a little later than planned, feeling the comfort of the cozy room. Thankfully, there was a kettle in the room, so we made ourselves a warm cup of coffee. As we sipped on it, the view from our window left us in awe. The majestic mountains stretched endlessly before us, bathed in the soft glow of the morning sun that had just risen a little above the peaks. The golden light illuminated the landscape, creating a picture-perfect moment that felt like a reward for our journey so far. Shiro, ever curious, sat by the window, his ears perked up, seemingly mesmerized by the view as much as we were.
The food at the hotel, however, wasn’t great, so we decided to get creative. We remembered we had packed some Maggi noodles, and using the kettle in the room, we whipped up a quick and satisfying breakfast. It felt like a small, fun adventure in itself. After finishing the Maggi, we planned to stop at a proper restaurant later. A quick search on Google helped us find some good options along the way, giving us something to look forward to as we prepared to continue our journey.
After a few hours of driving, we reached Khadu Cafe, a charming spot nestled in the mountains. The cafe’s theme was inspired by forest camping, creating a unique and inviting atmosphere. Instead of a hard floor, the ground was covered with dry grass, and potted plants added a refreshing touch of greenery. Bamboo outdoor chairs and wooden tables enhanced the rustic vibe, blending seamlessly with the natural surroundings. A small bookshelf filled with books in the corner added to its cozy charm. The best part was that it was pet-friendly, so Shiro could enjoy the break with us. The staff were incredibly welcoming and even offered Shiro some food, which he happily devoured while wagging his tail. We savored their delicious siddu, parathas, steaming hot tea, and refreshing buttermilk. It was the perfect pit stop to recharge, with Shiro soaking up all the attention and love from the friendly staff in this nature-inspired haven.
After enjoying the delicious food at Khadu Cafe, we set off toward Hatu Peak and its famous temple. The road leading up was not for the faint-hearted—it was incredibly narrow, with sharp hairpin bends and a steep incline that seemed to climb endlessly into the clouds. Our Kia Seltos roared through the treacherous path, its tires gripping the edge of the road just feet away from the sheer drop of the cliffside. The sound of loose gravel crunching beneath the wheels added to the tension. My brother, uncle, and aunt were visibly terrified, their faces pale as they clung to the seat handles. Every turn felt like a gamble, as the road seemed barely wide enough for one vehicle, let alone if another car approached from the opposite direction.
At one point, we had to stop and reverse to let another vehicle pass, with the cliff looming ominously close. The sensation of being suspended so high above the valley below was both thrilling and unnerving. Even Shiro, usually full of energy and excitement, sat perfectly still in the back seat, as if he, too, could sense the gravity of the situation. The howling wind outside and the occasional sight of loose rocks tumbling down the slopes added to the adrenaline rush. It felt like we were on the edge of an adventure movie, each twist and turn testing our courage.
After conquering the breathtaking heights of Hatu Peak, we plunged into the next leg of our adventure, heading toward Reckong Peo, where we planned to spend the night. The journey was long and demanding, especially since we had to cross the Kinnaur Valley roads at night due to the delays we encountered earlier. The winding, narrow roads seemed even more treacherous under the dark sky, and every turn felt like a leap of faith. Despite the challenges, the night was alive with the thrill of the unknown. By the time we reached Reckong Peo, it was around 10 PM, and exhaustion had set in. Thankfully, we managed to find a hotel that had a room available and served food, which was a relief after such a demanding drive. However, like most of the hotels we stayed in during this trip, the food was far from impressive. Despite that, the sense of accomplishment from covering such a distance kept our spirits high as we prepared for the next leg of our adventure.
The next morning, we woke up to a stunning sight. The night had been cold, with temperatures dipping to -8°C, but the crisp air was refreshing as the first light of dawn began to break. As I stepped outside, I was greeted by a breathtaking sunrise. The sun slowly emerged from behind the mountains, its light rays gently filtering through the trees. The soft glow of the morning light created a sense of calm that washed over me, quieting my mind and easing the lingering tension of the journey. The stillness of the moment felt almost sacred as if the world had paused just for me. Shiro, too, was calm, lying beside me, his presence grounding me in the peacefulness of the scene. It was a moment of pure serenity, where everything seemed in perfect harmony, and I couldn’t help but feel deeply connected to the beauty of the world around me. In that stillness, I found a deep sense of peace, a reminder of the simple joys that travel and nature bring to the soul.
With the peaceful sunrise still fresh in our minds, we had breakfast and hit the road once again, winding through the mountain paths. The views were nothing short of mesmerizing—every turn revealed awe-inspiring landscapes that seemed to stretch endlessly. We stopped at Telangi, Himachal Pradesh, as my little brother was eager to explore the river running alongside the road—the Sutlej River. We parked our car by the roadside and made our way down to the riverbank. The cool breeze from the river, combined with the sound of the rushing water, created a tranquil atmosphere. My brother, full of excitement, spent time throwing stones into the river, watching them skip across the surface, his laughter echoing in the stillness. Shiro, too, seemed to enjoy the moment, happily splashing around in the cold water, his tail wagging with joy. It was one of those simple yet unforgettable moments where time seemed to slow down, and the connection with nature felt pure and unhurried.
After spending about an hour and a half by the river, we got back into the car and continued our journey. Soon, we reached the famous Khabo Loops, a series of dramatic hairpin bends that offered some of the most breathtaking views of the valley below. The scenery was absolutely stunning—mountains towering above, the river winding through the valley, and the vast sky above. We couldn’t resist stopping for a photo session. The loops provided the perfect backdrop, and we spent some time capturing the beauty of the moment with photos and videos. I even flew my drone to capture the vastness of the landscape from above. The aerial shots were mesmerizing, showcasing the winding roads, the deep valley, and the majesty of the mountains. It was one of those rare moments when you truly feel small in the face of such immense natural beauty.
After our photo session, we finally reached Nako around 4 PM. As soon as we arrived, the cold wind hit us immediately, making the air feel crisp and refreshing. Shiro, who had been waiting inside the car, eagerly jumped out and started running around, enjoying the open space. We then decided to have a break and enjoyed some delicious momos and thukpa, which were just what we needed after a long drive. Shiro, not one to miss out, also had a few momos and seemed to enjoy them just as much as we did. The warmth and flavors of the meal were truly comforting.
After having food, I checked the fuel status and realized we were running low. I had forgotten to refuel at the last stop, and now we had to travel 110 km to the next fuel station. The car’s odometer indicated that we had about 120 km left, but my uncle, ever the cautious one, advised against taking any chances, especially with my aunt and little brother with us. I asked the locals near the restaurant if there was fuel available, and they told me that there was a grocery store nearby where an aged uncle was selling fuel. I went there, and to my relief, they had fuel available, charging a premium of 10 rupees per liter. I filled up 20 liters, thanked the kind uncle, and felt a huge sense of relief. Shiro, after his little exploration and meal, was back in the car, and with a full tank, satisfied bellies, and everyone ready, we were on our way again, continuing our journey to the next adventure.
At around 6:30 PM, we finally reached the checkpost of Spiti Valley. As we approached, the iconic entrance gate came into view, with “Welcome to Spiti Valley” proudly written across it. The sight filled us with a sense of accomplishment and excitement—it felt like we were stepping into a whole new world. Before proceeding, we paid an entrance fee of ₹120 per car, which felt like a small price for the adventure that awaited us. The surroundings were rugged and quiet, with a stark beauty that immediately captured our attention. We paused for a moment to capture some photos from the car, marveling at the grandeur of the place. Shiro, sitting in the back seat, peeked out of the window, watching us with curiosity as if wondering what the fuss was about. The air was cool and crisp, and the silence of the valley was broken only by the occasional rustle of the wind. It was the perfect start to what promised to be an unforgettable journey through Spiti.
After crossing the checkpost, we continued our journey, listening to songs and driving along the zig-zag mountain roads. The twists and turns of the roads were thrilling, with the headlights carving through the darkness and revealing glimpses of the towering cliffs and deep valleys around us. The rhythmic hum of the car and the music kept us company as we made our way through the serene yet challenging terrain.
By the time we reached Tabo, it was quite late, and the famous Tabo Monastery was already closed for the day. Feeling a bit disappointed but determined to stick to our plan, we decided to pack some food from a small eatery outside the monastery. With dinner sorted, we set off again, heading towards Kaza, where we planned to stay the night. The drive ahead promised more winding roads and breathtaking views, even in the dim moonlight. As the cold night deepened, we were eager to reach Kaza and rest, ready for the next leg of our adventure.
As we navigated the quiet, winding roads under the starry night sky, a faint hissing sound broke through the rhythm of the car and the music. My heart skipped a beat—it sounded like gas leaking. The gas cylinder strapped to the roof of the car immediately came to mind. Adrenaline kicked in, and I quickly pulled over, stepping into the cold, silent night to investigate. Without a flashlight, I relied on the dim glow of the moon to guide me as I climbed onto the roof carrier.
There it was—the stove, jostled by the relentless twists and turns of the mountain roads, had ground against the carrier, loosening the connection. The gas was leaking. I tightened the cylinder carefully, my fingers fumbling slightly in the biting cold. As I secured it, I paused for a moment and looked up. Towering rock formations loomed above, their jagged silhouettes glowing eerily in the moonlight. The stark contrast of their rugged edges against the star-speckled sky made the scene feel surreal.
Standing there under the vast expanse of the universe, with the faint smell of gas lingering in the air and the towering cliffs watching silently, I felt a strange mix of tension and awe. The moment, though nerve-wracking, was a vivid reminder of the wild and untamed beauty of the Himalayas—a place where even the challenges came with breathtaking rewards.
We had booked a hotel on Airbnb, thinking it would be a cozy spot to rest after the long drive. But when we arrived, reality hit hard. The road leading to the place was broken, and it seemed impossible to reach by car. The place had a shady, almost abandoned vibe. My uncle, who’s always quick to sense things, got out of the car and walked to the hotel since it was impossible to drive up due to the broken road. After a while, he returned to the car, looked at me, and said, “This Airbnb doesn’t feel right. It seems like a shady place.” Without a word, we both knew this wasn’t the place for us.
So, we decided to leave and look for another hotel nearby. Thankfully, we found a decent one that felt much safer and more welcoming. Even though we had packed dinner, my uncle insisted we should have something fresh and hot. So, we ventured out into the cold night and found a small local restaurant, where we packed dal chawal and mixed vegetables. While waiting for our food, I noticed a map on the wall that displayed various places in Spiti with short descriptions. It mentioned places like Kibber, Pin Valley, Hikkim, Tabo, Lossar, and more. It was fascinating to see these names and learn about the regions we had been exploring and were yet to discover.
We then headed back to the hotel, where we enjoyed the warm meal with the family. There’s something about a hot meal after a long day of travel that just makes everything feel right.
A funny thing happened when we got out to grab food. As I was entering the restaurant, I didn’t realize the door was locked, and my head hit the glass door. People inside started laughing, and even though I was a bit embarrassed, I couldn’t help but laugh too. It was one of those moments where you just have to laugh at yourself, even if it was a little awkward.
On our way back to the hotel, I noticed the ground was frozen—water had turned to ice. I pointed it out to my uncle, saying, “Look, the water is frozen!” It was a small thing, but in that moment, it really hit me—this place was so different from what we were used to. The cold, the isolation, and the raw beauty of the mountains—it all felt like a reminder of how far we had come from the comfort of home.
Very well curated story of Spiti journey. This definitely increased my curiosity to explore this amazing place, food and culture.